Leheriya — from leher, wave — is a resist-dye technique from Rajasthan that covers fabric in diagonal stripes of colour. Its rippling lines are said to echo the waves of the desert sand and the rain of the monsoon, and it is the textile of Teej.
How it is made
- A light fabric — traditionally fine cotton or chiffon — is rolled diagonally from one corner to the opposite selvedge into a long rope.
- The rope is tied tightly at intervals with thread.
- It is dyed; the tied sections resist the colour, creating diagonal bands when the fabric is unrolled.
- For multicoloured leheriya, the process is repeated with new ties and new colours.
Patterns
- Leheriya: parallel diagonal waves.
- Mothra: the fabric is rolled and tied in both directions, so the waves cross and leave small undyed squares, said to look like lentils (moth).
- Panchrangi and satrangi: five and seven colours.
Leheriya and the monsoon
In Rajasthan, leheriya turbans and sarees are worn for Teej and through the rains — green and multicolour for the monsoon, and saffron and red for celebrations. It remains one of the most cheerful textiles to wear in the wet season.
Read about Teej and explore our monsoon collection.
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